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gwikse  
#41 Posted : Tuesday, June 5, 2012 9:15:21 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: DQ828 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
Ok then. Done.
Model is updated.



Did you every find a source for the Mu Metal shields as I would like to use some as well but have not been able to find anything.



I did a search on ebay and found among others this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/...&hash=item25654e9aa2

And copper tape for the inside of the module section:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/...&hash=item3cc5bdf6c9

Edited by user Tuesday, June 5, 2012 9:32:11 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

gwikse  
#42 Posted : Wednesday, June 6, 2012 6:25:50 PM(UTC)
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Will proporably add the relay circuit that you described anyway Corpius, but for a different reason;

I want to end up with closer to the ideal V for the B3 and Ivy, so the placid`s will have to start with a higher voltage than B3 and Ivy can handle safely. Due to the drop in V as the placid`s heat up, it will have to start with voltages at around 5.3 and 15.1 in order to get the ideal 5,25V and 15V when stable. Code and hardware for doing this is so far not thought out (as usual Whistle ).
Corpius  
#43 Posted : Wednesday, June 6, 2012 6:38:47 PM(UTC)
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Hi,

How much does the voltage drop? Mine hardly drops at all. Maybe just 0.2 V. How long does it take for the placid to become stable? maybe I have not waited long enough. After 10 min mine is 5.23V and at startup 5.25V
Brian Donegan  
#44 Posted : Wednesday, June 6, 2012 6:39:51 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
Will proporably add the relay circuit that you described anyway Corpius, but for a different reason;

I want to end up with closer to the ideal V for the B3 and Ivy, so the placid`s will have to start with a higher voltage than B3 and Ivy can handle safely. Due to the drop in V as the placid`s heat up, it will have to start with voltages at around 5.3 and 15.1 in order to get the ideal 5,25V and 15V when stable. Code and hardware for doing this is so far not thought out (as usual Whistle ).


There is nothing magical about the exact voltages for either unit. The 5.25V for the Placid is a pre-regulated voltage, the final being set by the Tridents. 5.2V or 5.2V won;t make any real difference in the end. Likewise, 14.8 or 15.3V will not matter either.
Corpius  
#45 Posted : Wednesday, June 6, 2012 6:47:54 PM(UTC)
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And I can not imagine that you want to wait for a few minutes before you can start listening to your music. It is more logical to me if you would want to place the relays between the transformers and psb's. This way the control section can switch them of for any reason. Fi. Like when there is no signal coming in for some time or when a error occurs or for some sort of stand-by function.

Edit: I am planning to use them between my transformers and psb`s to switch off the dac when there is no signal coming in for 20 min or so.

Edited by user Wednesday, June 6, 2012 6:51:00 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

gwikse  
#46 Posted : Wednesday, June 6, 2012 7:11:14 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Brian Donegan Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
Will proporably add the relay circuit that you described anyway Corpius, but for a different reason;

I want to end up with closer to the ideal V for the B3 and Ivy, so the placid`s will have to start with a higher voltage than B3 and Ivy can handle safely. Due to the drop in V as the placid`s heat up, it will have to start with voltages at around 5.3 and 15.1 in order to get the ideal 5,25V and 15V when stable. Code and hardware for doing this is so far not thought out (as usual Whistle ).


There is nothing magical about the exact voltages for either unit. The 5.25V for the Placid is a pre-regulated voltage, the final being set by the Tridents. 5.2V or 5.2V won;t make any real difference in the end. Likewise, 14.8 or 15.3V will not matter either.


Originally Posted by: Corpius Go to Quoted Post
Hi,

How much does the voltage drop? Mine hardly drops at all. Maybe just 0.2 V. How long does it take for the placid to become stable? maybe I have not waited long enough. After 10 min mine is 5.23V and at startup 5.25V


Originally Posted by: Corpius Go to Quoted Post
And I can not imagine that you want to wait for a few minutes before you can start listening to your music. It is more logical to me if you would want to place the relays between the transformers and psb's. This way the control section can switch them of for any reason. Fi. Like when there is no signal coming in for some time or when a error occurs or for some sort of stand-by function.

Edit: I am planning to use them between my transformers and psb`s to switch off the dac when there is no signal coming in for 20 min or so.


Brian: I thought that the _ideal_ Voltage for the Ivy was 15V. No Tridents to set the final Voltage there. I can understand why it would be overdoing it at the B3 though.

Corpius: I have no exact numbers atm but I am seing a larger drop than you. Aprox 0,1V (not 0,02 as you do).

Nit picking, hell yes. But I`ll look into it when the time comes anyway ;)

Now as to why I am seing a larger voltage drop? Well the main difference that I know of is the way I have mounted the heatsinks, so perhaps running cooler / more even temps, is not the way to go after all ;)

Corpius  
#47 Posted : Friday, June 8, 2012 9:25:49 AM(UTC)
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Hi gwikse,

My new measurements might assure you. When measuring V(out) at the placid after playing music for over three hours the voltage had dropped 12 Mv.
gwikse  
#48 Posted : Tuesday, September 4, 2012 10:12:40 AM(UTC)
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I have been using newclassD regulators after a lcbps the last couple months and I am happy with the results.
I have not tested my placid`s yet, but I hope I will be able to do so later on.

Edited by user Tuesday, September 4, 2012 10:13:18 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

gwikse  
#49 Posted : Wednesday, September 5, 2012 2:33:32 PM(UTC)
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My buffalo with arduino has been running 24/7 for the last few months with no hickups. The arduino has never failed. For those who are a little worried about the arduino failing and the volume getting stuck or set to full volume etc I can say you probotblu have nothing to worry about (I leave it on at all times and have had no issues).
I was about to change the gain of the ivy, but I use normal gain, so that I can listen to low level recordings. Even at full volume, I have not had any clipping or distortion. My speakers can handle a lot of volume (Audiophysic Virgo V), and the power amplifiers seem to be able to keep them in check even at extreme volume levels (Icepower based diy monoblocks). My ears and body is another issue....

I have used 4x "sidecar with one relay" (same circuit as the sidecar, but with only one relay, and only one source to each relay) to switch in sp-dif signals to the sp-dif input. 3x optical modules and one BNC. In addition I have a sidecar wich switch in i2s from a usb source (musiland monitor 03us) but I have not modified the monitor 03 yet, so the i2s is not yet tested. The arduino only switch between two sources atm but I will update it later to be able to switch all of the inputs.

As of now I am using only one of the toslink inputs. All the components that use optical output (PS3, TV tuner etc) are connected to a 4x2 HDMI switch with optical output, so the hdmi switch does all the switching on the less important gear. The computer with Jriver 17 is connected through a Presonus Firebox Mobile (firewire from the computer, and RCA coax consumer sp-dif to the dac). I also use it for recording. It seems like a way better source than other USB based solutions I have tested (usb to consumer sp-dif does not sound as good in my system for some reason). I will replace the wall-mart power supply to these (presonus, and hdmi switches) later on, most likely I will use a LCDPS with "super-regulators that can handle up to 12V 1A. The second output goes to another 4x2 switch wich also has optical output to my second dac at the computer.

As for other ideas I have been thinking of using my android phone as remote with the same gui centered and surrounded by volume, input and other buttons. When the android/iphone is connected the backlight on the display will be turned off.

That is just a dream atm, as I dont know how to do it or even if it is possible. I have just seen some of the add-on boards that can be used with the arduino and noticed that it can be connected to a network and so if the phone is also connected to that network I dont see why not.
SCompRacer  
#50 Posted : Sunday, September 9, 2012 3:56:44 PM(UTC)
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Nice work gwikse, and high marks to Corpius for assisting. Your efforts have encouraged me to consider Arduino/Hifiduino for my recent dual mono build. I'll have up to four inputs along with a Sidecar and would like remote volume. Sorry if I missed it, but what are you powering the Arduino board and display with? Does it add any noise to the DAC?

Currently I have one side of an LCDPS open, but if IIRC its max voltage is too low for an Arduino (needs 7-12v)? I also have an LCBPS powering a pair of Ventus EZ's for SE out (15v).

Edited by user Sunday, September 9, 2012 4:07:51 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Brian Donegan  
#51 Posted : Sunday, September 9, 2012 4:06:21 PM(UTC)
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Quote:
For those who are a little worried about the arduino failing and the volume getting stuck or set to full volume etc I can say you probotblu have nothing to worry about


I think that unless the Arduino wrote new register values to the Buffalo to change the volume while it was failing, this is pretty much impossible.

You could verify this by unplugging the Arduino connection while the Buffalo is running (amps off, of course) and checking the output level.
Corpius  
#52 Posted : Sunday, September 9, 2012 4:10:38 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: SCompRacer Go to Quoted Post
Sorry if I missed it, but what are you powering the Arduino board and display with? Does it add any noise to the DAC?

Currently I have one side of an LCDPS open, but if IIRC its max voltage is too low for an Arduino (needs 7-12v)?

If you want to power an Arduino by plugging a 2.1mm center-positive plug into the board's power jack the recommended range is 7 to 12 volts. I'm powering it with a simple LM317 regulated power supply. I'm not able to measure possible added noise, but my ears can't hear any differences. IMO adding the Arduino control added a lot of value (and fun) to the DAC.
Corpius  
#53 Posted : Sunday, September 9, 2012 4:13:31 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Brian Donegan Go to Quoted Post
Quote:
For those who are a little worried about the arduino failing and the volume getting stuck or set to full volume etc I can say you probotblu have nothing to worry about


I think that unless the Arduino wrote new register values to the Buffalo to change the volume while it was failing, this is pretty much impossible.

You could verify this by unplugging the Arduino connection while the Buffalo is running (amps off, of course) and checking the output level.
Arduino won't write new register values to the buffalo when failing, it is indeed impossible. There is really nothing to worry about, unless the arduino failes to start when powering the DAC.

Edited by user Sunday, September 9, 2012 4:14:20 PM(UTC)  | Reason: typo

gwikse  
#54 Posted : Monday, September 10, 2012 8:01:43 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: SCompRacer Go to Quoted Post
Nice work gwikse, and high marks to Corpius for assisting. Your efforts have encouraged me to consider Arduino/Hifiduino for my recent dual mono build. I'll have up to four inputs along with a Sidecar and would like remote volume. Sorry if I missed it, but what are you powering the Arduino board and display with? Does it add any noise to the DAC?

Currently I have one side of an LCDPS open, but if IIRC its max voltage is too low for an Arduino (needs 7-12v)? I also have an LCBPS powering a pair of Ventus EZ's for SE out (15v).


Originally Posted by: Brian Donegan Go to Quoted Post
Quote:
For those who are a little worried about the arduino failing and the volume getting stuck or set to full volume etc I can say you probotblu have nothing to worry about


I think that unless the Arduino wrote new register values to the Buffalo to change the volume while it was failing, this is pretty much impossible.

You could verify this by unplugging the Arduino connection while the Buffalo is running (amps off, of course) and checking the output level.


Originally Posted by: Corpius Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Brian Donegan Go to Quoted Post
Quote:
For those who are a little worried about the arduino failing and the volume getting stuck or set to full volume etc I can say you probotblu have nothing to worry about


I think that unless the Arduino wrote new register values to the Buffalo to change the volume while it was failing, this is pretty much impossible.

You could verify this by unplugging the Arduino connection while the Buffalo is running (amps off, of course) and checking the output level.
Arduino won't write new register values to the buffalo when failing, it is indeed impossible. There is really nothing to worry about, unless the arduino failes to start when powering the DAC.


Hello all :)

I can confirm that Corpius. I did as Brian suggested and unplugged the arduino power while playing music (with a pot between the dac and the power amps. Result: no difference in sound level. But there were a few ppl who had trouble with the arduino resetting for some strange reason. But as long as you keep the default (start up value) at a low level it should not be a problem.

I can test it again later on to see if the init-part of the reset will be at a different volume, but I dont think so (I think I tested this also but I am not 100% sure, I vagely remember that the dac was muted during the init).
It has been running without any hickups at all for 2 months now, and the only time I got a bit of a shock was when the ir-blast was interrupted or not complete so that the volume down became volume up. That is the only "warning" I will give to future builders; make sure that the opening in the front panel allow for a very wide uninterrupted signal (it seems that if the signal is partly hindered volume down becomes volume up...).

As for the power supply, I am using half of an LCDPS set to 7V, and then the arduino`s 5V supply (on board 7805 regulator) supply the lcd.

I have not experienced any noice issues. The controller and lcd is at the oppsosite side of the dac and linestage. The minimum distance from the dac/linestage to the controller/lcd is 15cm and the cables does not run parallell anywhere. Any percieved difference is just a benefit due to being able to switch most of the filters inside the dac according to how good (or bad) the source is. Each input has it`s own filter setting. So switching input also switch the settings to the optimal setting for each source ;)

Thank you again Corpius for the help with the coding :) I am looking forward to seeing how yours turn out. I need to redisign the dac plans now however, partly due to wishes from the family and partly because I want to allow for a network shield ;) I also dont want to take any chances regarding noice, so I will have to seporate or add a "wall" between the dac with it`s power supply and the arduino control section.

More to come when I get the time to work on it.

Best regards
Gunnar
SCompRacer  
#55 Posted : Monday, September 17, 2012 9:03:00 PM(UTC)
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I have my Arduino Uno ordered along with the 4x20 LCD and rotary encoder. I downloaded the Arduino software and the latest HiFiduino b10b1 code. I'm trying to get my head wrapped around all of it. I'd like to go for that larger display eventually....

So the code becomes the dipswitch settings that you choose with the rotary switch or do you code for the settings you want? I'll have four inputs and a Sidecar for now. I am using a DPST switch to activate the Sidecar and disable the S/PDIF autodetect feature. I removed the Ventus EZ's so I have an LCBPS available now too. I'm sure once I understand it the code you have posted will become very useful to me.

Edited by user Monday, September 17, 2012 9:09:16 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Corpius  
#56 Posted : Monday, September 17, 2012 9:56:51 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
I can test it again later on to see if the init-part of the reset will be at a different volume, but I dont think so (I think I tested this also but I am not 100% sure, I vagely remember that the dac was muted during the init).
It has been running without any hickups at all for 2 months now, and the only time I got a bit of a shock was when the ir-blast was interrupted or not complete so that the volume down became volume up. That is the only "warning" I will give to future builders; make sure that the opening in the front panel allow for a very wide uninterrupted signal (it seems that if the signal is partly hindered volume down becomes volume up...).
All 8 channels of the DAC are muted during initialization, But if the DAC is powered without Arduino connected or powered it will at full volume. When you start the Arduino, without starting the DAC while it is connected to the DAC the code hangs until you power the DAC also resulting in full volume! So be careful with it! Somehow the first part of the I2C commands do not arrive the DAC chip in this situation. Therefore I suggest using a pre-amp when testing the arduino. Especially when you go fiddle around with it. Boo hoo!

Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
Thank you again Corpius for the help with the coding :) I am looking forward to seeing how yours turn out
Your welcome, any time! I have neglected my build thread by not posting any further post about the process of building the DAC, but don't worry! I'm setting up a website at the moment where I will publish a very detailed article about my build, but please give me some time to write it Angel

I could give away some details about my build here, which also answers some of SCompRacer his questions. As you (Gwikse) know I have a single dac accompanied with the IVY, 4 channel spdif board, sidecar, teleporter and metronome. The DAC is powered by the Placid, Ivy by the HDBP, Arduino by a simple LM317 based PS and all remaining modules by AMBs Sigma 11. There are another Teleporter and OttoII waiting to join all the moludes. These will be used to get the I2S from the WaveIO, wich is going to be build into a separate chassis because it doesn't fit inside my DAC anymore.

I use Arduino to control it all. With the code i'm able to switch between all filter settings, DPLL settings, Oversampling ON/OFF, spdif or PCM input, Quantizer settings, switch inputs (Yes also sidecar and the ottoII willl also be no problem) and there is even more, but I can't remember what it is right now. So yes, the code becomes the dipswitch settings.
I have a 4x20 LCD display with blue characters and white background, but I just have a new LCD that has white characters and a black background, an so called inverted LCD. This look much better imo. It's radiating a lot less light into my room. But I am able to adjust the backlight by using the Arduino and a digital potentiometer. This is really a nice feature that I like very much.

To switch inputs with the B3 some of the code needs to be added or changed, but this is simple. I thinks that you (SCompRacer) where referring to this. I posted it somewhere in another post. PM me if you need it.

Edited by user Monday, September 17, 2012 10:02:43 PM(UTC)  | Reason: corrected some things :-)

gwikse  
#57 Posted : Tuesday, September 18, 2012 9:46:41 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: SCompRacer Go to Quoted Post
I have my Arduino Uno ordered along with the 4x20 LCD and rotary encoder. I downloaded the Arduino software and the latest HiFiduino b10b1 code. I'm trying to get my head wrapped around all of it. I'd like to go for that larger display eventually....

So the code becomes the dipswitch settings that you choose with the rotary switch or do you code for the settings you want? I'll have four inputs and a Sidecar for now. I am using a DPST switch to activate the Sidecar and disable the S/PDIF autodetect feature. I removed the Ventus EZ's so I have an LCBPS available now too. I'm sure once I understand it the code you have posted will become very useful to me.


I am using a Buffalo 2 atm. Wich has a different input configuration than the B3. I have not tested with B3 yet, but from what I understand Corpius is doing this atm. Apart from the input section my B2 is controlled the same way as the B3. The first input should work with the code directly from the hifiduino site, but I would have a look at Corpius`s modified code as the gui is imo a lot better with his code.

Originally Posted by: Corpius Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
I can test it again later on to see if the init-part of the reset will be at a different volume, but I dont think so (I think I tested this also but I am not 100% sure, I vagely remember that the dac was muted during the init).
It has been running without any hickups at all for 2 months now, and the only time I got a bit of a shock was when the ir-blast was interrupted or not complete so that the volume down became volume up. That is the only "warning" I will give to future builders; make sure that the opening in the front panel allow for a very wide uninterrupted signal (it seems that if the signal is partly hindered volume down becomes volume up...).
All 8 channels of the DAC are muted during initialization, But if the DAC is powered without Arduino connected or powered it will at full volume. When you start the Arduino, without starting the DAC while it is connected to the DAC the code hangs until you power the DAC also resulting in full volume! So be careful with it! Somehow the first part of the I2C commands do not arrive the DAC chip in this situation. Therefore I suggest using a pre-amp when testing the arduino. Especially when you go fiddle around with it. Boo hoo!

I was thinking of having a preamp a while ago, but all my sources are digital. I dont like having two modules doing the same thing (volume). So my take on eventually protecting the system would be to alter the gain, not adding a pre-amp as long as all my sources are all digital. I have not changed the gain on mine and choose to turn off the power amps when I leave the house for a short period and turn if all off when I leave for a longer period. My dog would not like it if the volume went to 100% when I was at the shop...

As far as I know one possible easy way of changing the gain would be to make a couple signal cables with 150ohm resistors (as far as I know this will alter the gain to aprox 4 compared to the stock ivy`s 2).

From what I remember Corpius, you have a proper pre-amp, have you been able to test with and without the pre?

Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
Thank you again Corpius for the help with the coding :) I am looking forward to seeing how yours turn out
Your welcome, any time! I have neglected my build thread by not posting any further post about the process of building the DAC, but don't worry! I'm setting up a website at the moment where I will publish a very detailed article about my build, but please give me some time to write it Angel

I could give away some details about my build here, which also answers some of SCompRacer his questions. As you (Gwikse) know I have a single dac accompanied with the IVY, 4 channel spdif board, sidecar, teleporter and metronome. The DAC is powered by the Placid, Ivy by the HDBP, Arduino by a simple LM317 based PS and all remaining modules by AMBs Sigma 11. There are another Teleporter and OttoII waiting to join all the moludes. These will be used to get the I2S from the WaveIO, wich is going to be build into a separate chassis because it doesn't fit inside my DAC anymore.

I use Arduino to control it all. With the code i'm able to switch between all filter settings, DPLL settings, Oversampling ON/OFF, spdif or PCM input, Quantizer settings, switch inputs (Yes also sidecar and the ottoII willl also be no problem) and there is even more, but I can't remember what it is right now. So yes, the code becomes the dipswitch settings.
I have a 4x20 LCD display with blue characters and white background, but I just have a new LCD that has white characters and a black background, an so called inverted LCD. This look much better imo. It's radiating a lot less light into my room. But I am able to adjust the backlight by using the Arduino and a digital potentiometer. This is really a nice feature that I like very much.

To switch inputs with the B3 some of the code needs to be added or changed, but this is simple. I thinks that you (SCompRacer) where referring to this. I posted it somewhere in another post. PM me if you need it.


I am looking forward to seeing it. Would be great to test the your B3 code on my friends B3. So far I have limited the inputs to one i2s and one sp-dif due to the strange behavior of the sp-dif input card when fully populated. BTW I have had the same input problems with a fully populated sp-dif input card. Go figure... As far as I have seen this only happens in countries with 220/230/240V And TPA can not replicate it in the US so I have my thoughts as to the root of the problem, but I have no idea as to how to fix it, so from my point of view input selection is easier done in other ways (relay`s or mux cards). Wich is how I would have to do it on my B2 so the code would then be the same, and the B3 when using the arduino for control is just a B2 at a higher cost (b2 has a consumer level sp-dif input (comparator on board) but not the dip switches). The DIY community asked for a more flexible buffalo and that is exactly what we got, but I dont think we were all aware of the complexity that was allready sorted on the B2.

What sort of inverted LCD did you use (that sounds like a good option for me as well)? And did you manage to get the backlight controlled by the arduino as well (or are you using a normal pot for that)?

I have not yet tested using a trident to regulate the sp-dif card. I have one or two 3.3V tridents lying around here .... somewhere .... but not where I thought they were :/
I added a Elna 22uF silmic cap to each side of the AVCC with good effect. Others have done this and explained it far better then I can, but I can say that I like how it sounds now with them on.
I am hoping to get more parts for my friends two B3 modules so that he and I can do some AB testing prior to setting them up in dual mono and compare to my B2.
Corpius  
#58 Posted : Tuesday, September 18, 2012 10:46:39 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
What sort of inverted LCD did you use (that sounds like a good option for me as well)? And did you manage to get the backlight controlled by the arduino as well (or are you using a normal pot for that)?

I ordered it from ebay. The seller is in Poland. The LCD arrived withing 3 days! It is this one.
I did manage to control the backlight with arduino. I added a digital potentiometer for this. I used the MCP42010 for this. It has two channels that can be controlled using the SPI compatible serial interface. I only use one channel to control the backlight. I wrote some code to control the pot and also some to create a menu that displays a horizontal bar that expands when you make the backlight shine brighter and smaller when the light is dimmed. Look quite neat! I have not yet found an application for the leftover channel of the digital pot. Any ideas perhaps?


Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
I have not yet tested using a trident to regulate the sp-dif card. I have one or two 3.3V tridents lying around here .... somewhere .... but not where I thought they were :/
I added a Elna 22uF silmic cap to each side of the AVCC with good effect. Others have done this and explained it far better then I can, but I can say that I like how it sounds now with them on.
I am hoping to get more parts for my friends two B3 modules so that he and I can do some AB testing prior to setting them up in dual mono and compare to my B2.
I will do some testing in a few days or so with lower voltages for the 4 channel spdif board. I did not found the time yet.
gwikse  
#59 Posted : Tuesday, September 18, 2012 3:23:34 PM(UTC)
gwikse

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Originally Posted by: Corpius Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
What sort of inverted LCD did you use (that sounds like a good option for me as well)? And did you manage to get the backlight controlled by the arduino as well (or are you using a normal pot for that)?

I ordered it from ebay. The seller is in Poland. The LCD arrived withing 3 days! It is this one.
I did manage to control the backlight with arduino. I added a digital potentiometer for this. I used the MCP42010 for this. It has two channels that can be controlled using the SPI compatible serial interface. I only use one channel to control the backlight. I wrote some code to control the pot and also some to create a menu that displays a horizontal bar that expands when you make the backlight shine brighter and smaller when the light is dimmed. Look quite neat! I have not yet found an application for the leftover channel of the digital pot. Any ideas perhaps?


Originally Posted by: gwikse Go to Quoted Post
I have not yet tested using a trident to regulate the sp-dif card. I have one or two 3.3V tridents lying around here .... somewhere .... but not where I thought they were :/
I added a Elna 22uF silmic cap to each side of the AVCC with good effect. Others have done this and explained it far better then I can, but I can say that I like how it sounds now with them on.
I am hoping to get more parts for my friends two B3 modules so that he and I can do some AB testing prior to setting them up in dual mono and compare to my B2.
I will do some testing in a few days or so with lower voltages for the 4 channel spdif board. I did not found the time yet.


Ah I see, Seems logical to have bars to show the settings :) I can picture it as a logical and nice addition to the gui. Is it allways visible, or just visible when adjusting? Perhaps you could use the leftover channel of the digital pot for contrast adjustment?

I ordered a chipKIT Uno32 (local order) and a noritake vfd (from digikey). I hope it will arrive this time, for some reason digikey boxes has a tendency to disappear on me when they arrive at customs. Not sure if someone over there think I am a terrorist making a bomb or something... :/

I am particularely looking forward to the chipkit uno32 to see if it is fully compatible with arduino enviroment. If so then it will allow for more elaborate code (network, BT, Wifi modules etc) and added functionality (IR-blasting etc).
https://www1.elfa.se/dat...s/TDGL002_Ref_Manual.pdf

Edited by user Tuesday, September 18, 2012 3:58:27 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Corpius  
#60 Posted : Tuesday, September 18, 2012 4:32:33 PM(UTC)
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The bar is only visible when adjusting. Good idea to use use the other channel for adjusting contrast! Not sure if this is easily done, because I'm using the I2C extra IO.

You could build a nice bomb with a countdown timer displayed on the vfd display Anxious .

I Think that I'll do not have room left to add all the code for the network shield. The chipkit seems like a logical choice.

At the moment I'm designing a dedicated "Buffalo shield" for arduino. This should make it easier connecting it all and could be used to easily incorporate all functions I'm using at the moment and perhaps even more. When the design is finished I'll order some nice factory produced PCBs for it. Please let me know if you have some good ideas that could also be incorporated to the shield.
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